UNDERGRADUATE RESEARCH BLOGS
The Office of Undergraduate Research sponsors a number of grant programs, including the Circumnavigator Club Foundation’s Around-the-World Study Grant and the Undergraduate Research Grant. Some of the students on these grants end up traveling and having a variety of amazing experiences. We wanted to give some of them the opportunity to share these experiences with the broader public. It is our hope that this opportunity to blog will deepen the experiences for these students by giving them a forum for reflection; we also hope these blogs can help open the eyes of others to those reflections/experiences as well. Through these blogs, perhaps we all can enjoy the ride as much as they will.
EXPLORE THE BLOGS
- Linguistic Sketchbook
- Birth Control Bans to Contraceptive Care
- A Global Song: Chris LaMountain’s Circumnavigator’s Blog
- Alex Robins’ 2006 Circumnavigator’s Blog
- American Sexual Assault in a Global Context
- Beyond Pro-GMO and Anti-GMO
- Chris Ahern’s 2007 Circumnavigator’s Blog
- Digital Citizen
- From Local Farms to Urban Tables
- Harris Sockel’s Circumnavigator’s Blog 2008
- Kimani Isaac: Adventures Abroad and At Home
- Sarah Rose Graber’s 2004 Circumnavigator’s Blog
- The El Sistema Expedition
- The World is a Book: A Page in Rwand
My Scandinavian Tour
Over the last week or so, I have been able to take a short break from the research and see all that Scandinavia has to offer (or what I am able to see in a week’s worth of time). My last couple of days on Samso were a combination of summary interviews and outdoor activities. The interviews once again reiterated what I had been already seeing, that Samso is a really special place with really special people. Two men I met, Erik and Lyfe have both invested in renewable energy projects because they were interested in the projects and it was the right thing to do. Erik was so interested in renewables that he converted his tractor to running on rapeseed oil, something he grows on his own organic farm and extracts with his own press using the biproduct, rapeseed cakes, as a feed for his cows. Here is a picture of Erik’s rapeseed press:
From Samso 2 |
My last day at the academy was spent helping with a presentation they were doing for 100 d
Danish high school students. It was impressive to see the interest of the students and the concerns they had in addressing energy in a way that was interactive with the community. I really enjoyed the Academy’s coordinator for school visits, Malene’s view that we need to be engaging the public by asking questions instead of suggesting actions. Malene believes in the power of asking questions as a way of sharing a story and common experiences. Unfortunately, my time for asking questions at the Samso Energy Academy was ending as I had to move on to Sweden for my next research stop.
I took my final ferry ride and headed to Copenhagen for a day of sightseeing. Luckily, one of my cousins got me connected with her good friend in the Danish capital who spent the day showing me the sights by canal boatride and chatting over a sandwich and a drink. I got a great view of the city from the top of a tower and it really hit me, not only how much history the city has but also how alive the city was for being fairly small by US standards. Here is a little taste of that view:
From Copenhagen |
After Copenhagen, I was off to Halmstad, Sweden to reunite with some long lost family friends who were gracious enough to show me a wonderful weekend in their small southern town. I spent the weekend touring castles and exploring the countryside on the families small traditional red farmhouse. My interest was sparked when I went inside the farmhouse and saw the years of history that had been preserved, especially the pair of old wooden skis that were in perfect condition. Here are a few pictures from my time in Halmstad and there is a link in the bottom righthand corner to the album that contains many more:
From Halmstad, Sweden |
From Halmstad, Sweden |
From Halmstad, Sweden |
Following the weekend, I headed to Vaxjo, Sweden a little further to the north to spend time with another member of the same family and also for a site visit with those involved in planning for the “Greenest City in Europe”, as the BBC once called Vaxjo. The first couple of days I spent my time by the many lakes and relaxing with my friends’ two young children, who are getting a kick out of having a real American staying with them. I will share more about my research in a few days when I finish up my interviews and tours around the city. Scandanavians are unlike us in the US in that it is hard to find someone who does not support sustainability for one reason or another. The Swedish are really unique in that they have an everyman’s right law where anyone is allowed to hike, camp, pick berries and mushrooms, or boat anywhere for a reasonable amount of time in the country no matter who owns the property. This has instilled a love for nature and a concern about environmental degradation that almost seems universal. I think the right to public access is an amazing idea and would maybe help us in America appreciate the beautiful surroundings before they are all destroyed.
I can’t believe that I will be home in a little over a week. With so little time left, I have begun to reflect on what an amazing and rewarding journey this has been as well as being cautiously optimistic and excited for what the future holds for myself and society as we begin this transition towards sustainable development. Thank you again to everyone for following me on this journey.
Colliding Worlds – PART II: How I Met President Kagame
Yes, that is His Excellency President Paul Kagame of Rwanda.
Yes, that is Reverend Jesse Jackson.
Yes, that is me standing in the left corner grinning like a five-year-old child.
Now, if anything ever happens to me in Rwanda, all I have to do is pull out this picture and say, “See, President Kagame and I are best friends!”
(Just kidding).
(But not really).
Here’s the story of how it all happened.
Saturday, June 11, 11:00 AM – I am at the Hyatt Regency Hotel at 151 East Wacker Drive, downtown Chicago. The woman standing in front of me is scrutinizing my camera and she raises it to take a close-up of my face. Then, she turns my cell phone off and on and glares at me suspiciously when I roll my eyes.
I forgot how crazy the President’s security staff is – especially about technology – and I have a cell phone, camera, and laptop in my bag. The woman empties my entire purse onto the security belt and begins to peruse its contents. She finds my nail clipper and immediately starts waving it angrily at my face.
Really? A nail clipper? You think I am going to attack the President with a nail clipper?
She throws it into a pile of other confiscated objects and then grunts for me to move on. I grab my purse, shove everything back inside, and join B, Arthur, and Allan in the conference room.
There, all of the preparations for the President’s arrival are going through a final check. I notice that the banner has been changed from yesterday and the podium repositioned. Now, the two screens read simply: “RWANDA DAY 2011 – AGACIRO.” B is busy ushering people into one of the smaller meeting rooms, while Allan paces back and forth on the scarlet carpet, and Arthur sets up his video equipment.
“Lydia!” Allan says when he sees me, already stretching out his arms for a hug. “How are you? Did you get your press badge yet?”
Thank goodness for friends like Allan (friends who know people who know people who know people)! Minutes later, I have my press badge and official clearance to take photos and footage of the event.
Smiles.
I should probably give you some context.
This is Rwanda Day 2011 in Chicago – a weekend conference organized by the Rwandan government to bring together thousands of Rwandans across the United States and Canada to celebrate Rwanda’s achievements and Vision 2020, and facilitate “social, communal, and business relationships between the Rwandan Diaspora, friends of Rwanda, and the Rwandan business community.” [According to www.rwandaday.org]
The day before, the conference featured two panels – the first discussed “Connecting Opportunities, Creating Value for Rwandans,” and the second discussed “Investing in Rwanda’s Youth, Creating Solutions for the Future.”
Both panels were well-attended, but today’s event was going to be packed. Even the air felt different – I could taste the buzz and nervous excitement, it was almost as if even the walls and light fixtures were shimmering and whispering, “The President is coming! The President is coming!”
I go back into the conference room and help the staff put Rwandan flags on all of the chairs. Then, I select my seat by the stage and test the camera.
Everything was ready.
The room begins to fill at around 2:00 PM. The event opens with a documentary “Agaciro” created by my very talented friend, Allan. [You can view the documentary on Youtube at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oBN_qmlQMU]
Then, at 4:00 PM, HE arrives.
Following the cues of all the “real” press people, I rush to the front and start madly snapping pictures.
But then he starts getting closer. And closer.
Conflicted, I decide to put down my camera, and then – YES.
I TOUCH HIS HAND!!!!
Elated that I had just accomplished the feat of a lifetime, I raise my camera back again and resume snapping pictures, but all the while with a huge grin on my face. I can’t wait to tell my parents: I JUST TOUCHED A PRESIDENT’S HAND.
Kagame ascends the stage amidst rapturous applause, and is immediately greeted with a children’s choir and a traditional dance performance.
Reverend Jesse Jackson introduces the President (with, as it turns out, an impromptu speech). Then, the Man himself takes the podium.
I wish I had a transcript of his speech.
It was so eloquent and given with such heartfelt sincerity. President Kagame expressed so much hope for the country’s future and for the new generation; he also addressed the inevitable dissent and criticism that would be directed toward his presence. As it turns out, there was a protest occurring just outside of Hyatt, led by none other than the (supposed) hero of Hollywood’s Hotel Rwanda, Paul Rusesabagina. But the focus of the President’s speech was on the people, the economic progress, and the country’s plans for the future.
As I listen to the translated proceedings, I walk around the room snapping pictures of the audience, the performances, the stage. And at one point, when I lower my camera to review the photos, I see this:
I look up from my camera and Reverend Jackson is still beckoning for me(?) to go over to the side of the stage. I look behind me, no one else is looking in his direction, then turn around and point at myself. He nods.
I walk over to the side of the stage.
“Hi. I’ve been seeing you running around everywhere taking pictures,” he says, “Who are you here with? Do you have a card?”
Taken aback, I quickly explain that I am just a student (I don’t tell him about how I got my press badge), and briefly narrate my “connection to Rwanda.”
“Listen, the President is coming off the stage in five minutes. Wait here. I want to personally introduce him to you.”
I swear my heart stopped beating. Or else, it started beating so fast I couldn’t process what was happening anymore.
DID JESSE JACKSON REALLY JUST TELL ME HE WAS GOING TO INTRODUCE ME TO PRESIDENT KAGAME???
And five minutes later, it happened.
I shake the President’s hand – for REAL this time – and tell him about my two previous trips and my plans to return to Rwanda in the summer with a project.
With me is Kellogg professor, Michelle Buck, whom I had invited to the conference. Michelle had just flown in from a conference in Boston, and had another flight to Florida that evening, but she made a last minute decision to stop in Chicago just for Rwanda Day. Michelle is planning to teach courses on Rwanda at Kellogg and also looking into the possibility of developing a team to visit Rwanda in the spring.
Several photos later, the President leaves the conference.
Fortunately, only Arthur and PD had to witness my bouncing-squealing-oh-my-gosh-that-did-not-just-happen-excitement.
But isn’t that amazing?
Who would have thought that less than a year after my first trip to Rwanda, I would get to meet the President?
None of this – meeting Kagame, attending the TriBeCa Film Festival, going on a second trip to Rwanda – could have happened without the initial funding from the Provost’s Office through the Immersion Experience Grant [now known as the Undergraduate Engagement Grant].
I know months have already passed since June, but I wanted to tell you about all the amazing opportunities that have come my way because of that one initial opportunity.
So – THANK YOU. I can’t wait to see what other opportunities and adventures lie ahead.
Colliding Worlds – PART I: Community & Commemoration
Worlds tend to collide in the most interesting ways.
Saturday, May 14, 3:00 AM – I am downtown in the Loop and just about to take the Red line home when I receive a phone call from my friend.
“What? Wait – wait a second, I’m getting off the train. Excuse me. Sorry. Just a sec, it’s really loud.”
I push my way back onto the platform just as the doors close and I watch my train barrel past me. This had better be good.
“Hey. Hey B, you still there? What’s up?”
My friend is calling from Indiana and she invites me to spend the weekend. Apparently, some of her relatives have just flown in from Rwanda – among them, an aunt who was particularly kind and hospitable to me on both my past trips there.
“The train leaves at 8:30 tomorrow morning?” I glance at my watch. 3:05 AM. “Yeah, yeah. I’ll be there. I’ll let you know when I get on the train. Thanks so much. Yeah, I’ll see you tomorrow, B. Bye.”
Five and a half hours later – I get to the station at 8:25 AM and barely make it onto the train just as the doors close and the train starts moving forward. I smile – but the smile is short-lived. The conductor tells me that the train doesn’t stop at South Bend on the weekends. My friend: “What? Are you still on the train? Shit, you have to get off that train!”
One hour later, I am crammed in the back of a small car with three Rwandan boys who do not speak English, and I smile politely at their parents as I balance a skinny vanilla latte on my right knee.
Three awkward carpool hours later, we finally arrive in South Bend, Indiana.
I am so relieved to get out of the car and tell B all about my traveling mishaps. But the moment I step inside the house, I am immediately whisked away to prepare hundreds of party favors; and then someone hands me a Rwandan dress and starts insisting that I change into it. People are running about the house in formal Rwandan garb, speaking in a rapid combination of Kinyarwanda and French.
And B? She is nowhere to be seen.
Then, I am back in a car – and, thank goodness, B is there too! – but we don’t have time to talk, because we need to assemble pictures into frames. We arrive at a church and Rwandan women in flowing robes impatiently usher us into file; they hand B a candle and me a drum.
Music starts playing, and then it dawns on me: I am part of a ceremony.
I follow a procession of Rwandan women single-file into the sanctuary, and set my drum next to B’s candle on a small stand in the center. A priest begins the ceremony with several hymns and Bible readings, followed by communion (which I am not allowed to take because I am not Catholic…). As B translates some of the speeches and prayers for me, I gradually realize the purpose of the ceremony: to commemorate loved ones who passed away during the 1994 genocide.
Even after all the exposure I’ve had to Rwanda’s history and different Rwandan communities, I am still always moved by the sense of strength amidst so much loss. Everyone in the sanctuary has lost somebody – some have even lost their entire families. But still they gather every year to support one another and remember their loved ones.
The church ceremony concludes with a traditional dance by young Rwandan girls. Then, once again, B and I are whisked away to yet another building and yet another ceremony.
After a small reception, I am given a candle and told to stand behind B and two other girls also bearing candles. One of the coordinators of the events instructs me on how to walk (it’s the wedding procession two-step) and I figure I am simply walking in another procession and placing my candle at the stage. The music starts and the girls in front of me move forward as I mentally practice my steps.
Then, I hear a voice inside say: “And now, young Rwandan girls and boys will come to the stage with candles for a moment of silence.”
Oh boy.
I can feel my cheeks burning as I follow B into the dark auditorium. I see the rows of solemn faces looking up at the stage, and desperately wish that my candle would shine less brightly on my so-obviously-not-Rwandan face.
What are these people going to think when they see me? I wonder. How are they going to react to a random Asian girl on stage – someone who is holding a candle in memory of their loved ones but so clearly has no tie to their experiences, someone who cannot possibly understand their loss?
I reach the stage.
The music stops and I hold my breath as the room fills with silence.
At first, I keep my eyes closed. I try not to swallow and I focus intently on keeping my candle steady.
But then, I venture a peek.
In the darkness, I see a sea of uplifted faces, faces connected to invisible bodies that sway to the same pulse. Rolling tears and joined hands harmonize with the movement, and in the silence, I hear a sweet, sweet emerging melody. The gentle hum of the community saturates the silence and as it overflows, I feel its embrace. All of the history, all of the pain, all of the loss, all of the tragedy wraps around me – it overwhelms me and I feel my heart collapsing beneath its weight.
But then somewhere in the room, a child laughs.
The community chuckles at the sound, and all of a sudden, I feel a quiet warmth and I hear the ascending notes of hope and comfort and healing. The community reaches for me; it lifts me up to a new tune, a new melody that rises from the depths and kisses the sun-drenched cheeks of its new generation. We are here for you. We love you. We won’t ever let this happen to you. Never again.
The music returns, and the lights return to the auditorium.
As I follow B and the other girls off of the stage, I feel an odd sensation of peace and calm and – disconnect?
The community around me carries a strength and glue I have never experienced. I think of my estrangement from my own Taiwanese roots. What does it take to create a community like this? What are the necessary building blocks, the unifying experiences that bind people together so tightly and so desperately?
And where do I fit in?
That is the question perpetually on my mind these days. I am back in Rwanda once again and I want to make a difference. What are the skills and resources that I bring to the table? What can I contribute? What can I share?
I am so grateful for all the opportunities this community has already given me.
But now, it is time for me to find my place within it and discover what I can give back in return.
Catching The Energy Island Spirit
I have now been on the small island of Samso in Denmark for a little over a week. Samso is a small, rural community of about 4,000 residents which at first glance looks like a typical farming village. Upon second glance, you may notice the 11 off-shore wind turbines or the 3 sets of on-shore turbines. As you look deeper you may notice the district heating plants with stacks of biomass to heat the island and as you look even deeper you will see a group of people set on helping the world rethink their energy usage by showing the viability of a completely renewable society.
Twelve years ago Samso won a competition to become Denmark’s renewable energy island. They had to convert within 10 years using existing technology and they did just that. Actually they did it in about 8; they have even converted 70% of the island’s heating to renewables and have accounted for their transport emissions by using credits from their turbines. The initiative has been headed by Soren Hermansen, an environmental scientist by training and a natural orator. I have spent the last week with Soren and his colleagues at the Samso Energy Academy, an institution that was set up to help spread awareness and direct the future sustainability projects on the island. Presently, the Academy is working on a transport proposal to switch the island bus system to electric.
Over the past week I have been living the small island life and loving every moment of this tranquil and peaceful place. I have had the chance to talk to a number of farmers and villagers who have lived on the island and changed the way they think about energy usage as a result of this project: from the farmer who runs his tractor on rapeseed to the pig farmer who has become an entreprenuer, owning his own wind turbine in Samso and investing in solar power in Germany. The people of Samso don’t think they should pay outsiders to ruin their beautiful environment and have therefore taken control of their energy future. It is also interesting to note that some of the wind turbines on Samso are cooperatively owned by the residents further increasing their stake and interest in the project. Samso is a really interesting experiement in how community members can be actively engaged and interested in participating in sustainable development projects.
It should be noted that I haven’t spent all day in interviews and meetings. I have gotten the chance to hike around the beautiful scenic landscape as well as bike through the many small villages on the 155 square kilometer island. Here are a couple of pictures from my time here so far.
From Samso, Denmark |
From Samso, Denmark |
From Samso, Denmark |
From Samso, Denmark |
It’s not “Good bye,” It’s “I’ll see you later”
I often tell myself and reassure others that the world is small. I like to talk about colliding worlds, intersecting lives, fused cultures and interests. “Don’t say good bye,” I’ll say to my tearing friends, “Stop crying. Stop that right now. If we really want to see each other again, we can and we will. Okay now seriously, stop it.”
I grew up in a college town where people came in and out of my life faster than the seasons. Every August, Ithaca’s population doubles with the entrance of new Cornell and Ithaca College students; every May, the population shrinks back in half and the bustling college towns become abandoned ghost towns. I learned not to get attached to the people around me because chances were, they would soon leave my life in a matter of three or four years. Saying “good bye” became an annual routine that involved glitter glue, card-stock, calligraphy pens, and photo collages. I coordinated the production and distribution of “farewell and thank you” cards to graduating college seniors and then watched others cry and embrace and tried to weasel a couple tears out of my own eyes to not look out of place.
When I entered college, I brought with me a potted plant. Bred on Ithacan soil, this two-year-old sapling became the basis for my gradual trust in the fertility of the new Chicagoan soil. I began to cautiously plant other seeds and, for a while, everything seemed to go well – new leaves began to unfurl, buds emerged beneath the foliage. I sat beneath the tree and enjoyed its shade for another two years as I tended the seedlings around it.
My first year of college increased my faith in relationships and in humanity. My second year of college destroyed both.
“My people have committed two sins: They have forsaken me, the spring of living water, and have dug their own cisterns, broken cisterns that cannot hold water.” Jeremiah 2:13
Halfway into college, my tree suddenly withered overnight. And as I grieved and tried to understand its loss, I failed to notice the poison that had begun to spread among the others. Even the most resilient plants fell away and shriveled despite my desperate attempts to nurture them back to life. In the aftermath, I was left with only the two youngest seedlings out of the several dozen. When I returned to examine the remains of my tree, I saw how the mysterious disease had severed its roots long before it died, a disease that was aided by the activity of one ambitious termite. I realized that my complete trust, dependence, and love for the tree had also blinded me to its ailment.
I stopped caring. I sat beneath the dead branches and spent my days grumbling about the scorching sunlight. “The risks aren’t worth the benefits,” I would complain when others asked me why I refused to garden, “Look at what happened to my first investment! Why would I repeat the same mistake?”
Weeds began to sprout up from the soil and I let them grow. I occasionally even tended them and allowed them to choke the two seedlings that continued to flourish despite my negligence. For over a year, I lived among the weeds and embraced their thorns and false ephemeral beauty.
What changed?
I am not sure. When my friends go through similar struggles, I share with them the same mantras that helped me through my loss. “Everything is 20/20 in hindsight.” “Adversity creates opportunity.” “It takes half the length of a relationship to get over one.”
But these were not the statements that ultimately convinced me to stand back up.
For six months, every morning was a battle. Just the process of opening my eyes and recognizing the world induced tears. I needed mandatory rehearsals and midterm exams to force me to get up – and for a while, the runway was my therapy. I found relief in the lines of the clothes and the pounding of the beats. When I walked, the weight of the world momentarily vanished and all that mattered was the stretch of stage before me. During those brief moments, I became nothing more than the fabric on my frame and my existence evaporated with all of its pain.
But after the show, I returned to full consciousness and every moment of it was unbearable.
I remember very little of the spring quarter of my sophomore year. When I search for memories, I find a long hazy stain punctuated by faded images of midnight heart-and-soul, an Urban Outfitters sweater, study sessions in 4N, a stroll through the new ARTIC modern wing, and the lingering taste of pink cotton candy accompanied by the soundtrack of “Kids” by MGMT.
But somewhere, however, in the bleak fog of those months, I discovered my utility.
I realized my hands, my fingers – their capacity to hold, to pick up, to write, to caress, to point, to guide. I saw my ears, my legs, my neck, my face: I saw the functional human body before me and recognized its physical capacities. However barren and burnt my soul may have been, I could not deny the potential utility of my body. The most pivotal realization of my life became this: that even if every second of every day you live is hell, as long as you have the capacity to bring happiness into another person’s life – whether this means sitting down next to a stranger in the dining hall, baking cookies for your neighbors, or making a baby laugh with a silly face – if you can induce a smile, your life is worth living. Life is a perpetual struggle, a journey over rivers, valleys, mountains and deserts. Others may never comprehend your struggles, but you also can never completely know what others are going through. Who knows whether one smile, heartfelt conversation, or helpful hand may transform someone’s day, or even their life?
Life did not become any easier or less miserable, but it did take on a purpose and a drive – the pursuit of utility, a desire to be the best I could be and to make the most of what I had. Instead of focusing on my own suffering, I started to prioritize how I could relieve the pain of others. I pursued utility – I tried to maximize my usefulness to serve the happiness of others, and hoped that, in the process, I would also find happiness.
I began to pull out the weeds and plant new seeds. I took risks because I felt that I no longer had anything to lose. I was no longer afraid of people. I did not fear poverty. I did not fear death.
I love J.K. Rowling’s speech to the Harvard graduating class of 2008, especially when she discussed the benefits of failure:
“[F]ailure meant a stripping away of the inessential. I stopped pretending to myself that I was anything other than what I was, and began to direct all my energy into finishing the only work that mattered to me… I was set free, because my greatest fear had been realised, and I was still alive […] And so rock bottom became the solid foundation on which I rebuilt my life.”
From rock bottom, I began to pick up the scattered shards to construct a new and improved Lydia 2.0.
I looked for ways to make myself useful to others – to friends, to the campus, to the local community, to communities abroad. I started designing activities for preschoolers, I taught arts and crafts at a school in the Dominican Republic, I spent long afternoons picking up manure in a Guatemalan field.
At school, I soon became involved in all things Africa-related, and began to focus especially on Rwanda.
Somehow, the country’s devastating history and post-genocide reconstructive efforts struck a chord with me. Here was an entire population that had experienced and endured more than I could ever imagine, and yet in the aftermath of destruction the nation’s unparallelled growth and progress have astonished the world. Here was a story of great loss and extreme pain, but also a story of healing, recovery, and reconciliation.
Rwanda became my inspiration and my muse for personal growth and self-recovery. And my goal became to witness the country’s progress first-hand and also play a role in contributing to its Vision 20/20.
As you already know, dear Readers, I finally had the opportunity to realize this goal TWICE last year – a BIG THANK YOU to the Provost’s Office! Those trips convinced me that Rwanda was where I belonged.
And now I am back in Rwanda again! (Yes, the blog lives on!). And this time, I am here to stay for at least one or two years.
But you know what?
I miss you.
It’s not really that I’m unhappy here or anything – no, I still love my taxi-moto rides, my daily cups of African tea, the long nights of music and dancing, the sense of purpose and meaning. I am happy here. Truly, I am.
But it’s the small things.
I miss occasionally feeling invisible. I miss walking down Michigan Avenue without having everybody turn to stare and gawk at me because I am a foreigner. I miss House music, Lyric Opera performances and CSO concerts. I miss blueberries and Whole Foods samples. I miss having the security of a return date. I even miss the el.
But most of all, I miss YOU.
I miss all of the people in my life who used to be oh-so-accessible via text, calling, facebook, gchat, skype, email, etc. The internet isn’t bad here, but it still isn’t good enough to have a sustained video chat or even an unbroken gchat conversation.
Graduation passed by smoothly in June, but it was July when the reality of all the good byes started to hit me. I quickly realized that my determined ambivalence toward intimacy and all my efforts to remain aloof and detached had failed and failed miserably.
Yes, I had planted a variety of new seeds – all sorts of flowers and vegetables and fruits that sprouted and flourished and yielded blossoms. But never any trees – no, I refused to plant another tree. That was one risk I would never ever ever take again.
Yet still – somehow, a new tree sprouted among the weeds and grew despite my conviction that it was just another weed. At first, I regarded its growth and emerging buds with great suspicion. However, over time, I learned to trust in the safe shade of its branches and the loyalty of its trunk.
But life moves on. Sometimes if we’re lucky, we understand why things happen, but most of the time, we don’t.
When it came to be time for me to move on, I had trouble leaving the familiarity of my garden. Some of my most beloved plants have stood with me through the worst storms and droughts and still remained as steadfast and loyal as ever. The tree, especially, had taught me to love and trust again. I didn’t want to leave but it gently pushed me away and whispered, “It’s not ‘good bye’, it’s ‘I’ll see you later’.”
Returning to Rwanda for the third time has made me reflect and reevaluate why I am here. I am trying to see the larger picture – the experiences, the people, the setbacks, the failures and successes – that have led me here.
I have spent much of the past two years running away — and twice in the past, Rwanda was my escape. I ran away from Chicago to learn and experience and breathe in a foreign country. But problems have an annoying tendency of catching up to you. The third time around, Rwanda is not nearly as charming or delightful – in fact, the past two weeks have presented more challenges and frustrations than the full duration of my two previous trips here.
But you know what? Perhaps it is here, in the belly of a great fish, that I can once again reach rock bottom and begin to see myself completely and honestly.
Thank you again, as always, for reading.
MURAHO from Kigali, Rwanda. It is good to be back.
It Has Been A While
I want to apologize for my lack of entries these past two weeks. Internet was a very limited commodity for me in Ghana so I decided to focus on the research and enjoy my time there. That being said. I left Africa yesterday morning and I am now sitting in my hostel in Denmark once again plugged into the outside world. My time in Ghana was an amazing experience but it was made that way as a result of the people. The Perpetual Prosperity Pump Foundation (they will soon be changing their name to the MORE Foundation) is a mix of Americans and Ghanaians with a passion for sustainable deelopment and the hope that someday they can use their methods to “feed all of Africa.” They recently set up their MORE (Modular Organic Regenerative Environment) Research Hub to develop farming techniques that produce ample food for farmers while eliminating the impact on the natural environment. It is very much a foundation in its youth but if it continues in the direction it has been headed it will likely help many in Ghana while promoting environmental health.
I want to spend the rest of this blog discussing the many amazing people who made my time in Ghana. Each had a different and unique view that helped shape my opinion of the organization. I think they deserve as much attention as anything else as this Circumnavigation would be nothing without amazing people like them.
First is the man behind the organization, Jim. Jim has been working in Ghana for a number of years and has started this organization by using his own experiences in sustainable agriculture and his love for Ghana. I never got to meet Jim as he still lives in the US, spending a few month each year in Africa. I did have a number of phone conversations with him and he is definitely one passionate guy. The team in Ghana says that whenever he visits it is like a whirlwind of new ideas and advances for the organization. This foundation is his baby and it truly shows.
The day to day operations are run by Elaine or “Mamalaine” as everyone calls her. A former paster, she came to Ghana on a mission and ended up staying and working in an orphanage, starting her own operation called Hope for Our Future. Unfortunately, one of the partners in Ghana got a little too greedy and she was forced to move on from the orphanage, joining PPPF as site manager of the Research Hub. She is hoping to start a drop in center where she can teach disadvantaged kids how to be farmers using the MORE foundation’s techniques.
Then there are the researchers. Vera, Carietta, Annabelle, and Clara. They are all Ghanains with degrees relating to agriculture. Each one is caring and considerate and took me to villages with them to conduct interviews. We would discuss their thoughts on the foundation and its direction in the hour plus long bus rides to the village sites.
Three farmers live at the compound and help to maintain the crops as well as serving as a layer of security. Nash, Moses, and Prince love to laugh, sing, and joke in the compound. They loved to share the country’s culture with me and helped me find all the local Ghanaian dishes to try. At night we would all sit around and talk about the differences between our two countries. You could see how much they, like many Ghanains, admired America and the many opportunities it provides that their country does not.
While I was there, there were also two volunteers there. Kate was there helping with administrative duties while Joe was there helping with video production for a new website. Both had been to Ghana before on an NYU study abroad program and helped me learn my way around the city and meet people. Kate was passionate about human rights issues and dreamed of someday working for the UN.
Joe also introduced me to two boxers living in Jamestown, one of the poorest communities in Accra, who he had met while filming a documentary on their gym in 2009. Mosquito was up and coming and was hoping to raise enough money to move to the US and study art while pursuing the sport. Mike on the other hand was struggling, having a hard time getting funds for training and not really receiving many fight offers. These two men showed both the hope and continuing struggle that so many face in Jamestown and other impoverished communities.
The final two friends I made while in Ghana were Nafesa and Lizzy. Nafesa worked at the market selling the tomatoes and mushrooms grown on the compound and Lizzy served as the cook, making amazing local dishes like okra stew and banku (crushed yams made into a dough like food that was eaten in the stew). These two women were bubbly, charismatic and lighthearted, always making the days more fun and offering up wonderful insights into the life of a young Ghanaian women.
With this diverse group of people, I learned more about the culture than I ever could have from reading or going to tourist sights. Each one really believes in the organization and loves the interactions with community members as they teach their new farming techniques. I only wish that I was able to share with them as much as they shared with me. With people like this, it was hard to not fall in love with the country and believe in the motivations and goals of the organization.
I am now off to the developed world, spending the next month in Denmark, Sweden, and the UK, where I will look at their strategies for sustainable development and the complexities surrounding projects in already built up nations. Unfortunately, I have once again been having some problems with uploading pictures so hopefully I will be able to share some Ghana photos with you shortly!
A Completely Different World
I have now been in Abu Dhabi for five days and the only way to describe this place is a completely different world. Between the scorching heat and the endless development in every nook and cranny of the city, the UAE is unlike any country I have ever seen.
When I arrived in the city, I meet up with Doug, an employee at the British Embassy and my host for the week. Doug is one of the friendliest people I have ever met and he has spent the week showing me around the city, introducing me to his friends, and helping me set up contacts for interviews. Doug’s focus within the Embassy is Energy and Sustainability, so its safe to say that he has been one of the best resources here for getting me connected within the sustainable development community.
I spent the weekend, Friday and Saturday in the UAE, being a tourist. On Friday, I went to the UAE Heritage village, a glimpse into life before the development began, and then beat the afternoon heat by exploring the huge Marina Mall and even going to see Harry Potter. Sometimes it is nice to get a little escape and relax for an afternoon. Saturday, I headed to the beach in the morning and then explored the Emirates Palace, the world’s most expensive hotel, in the afternoon. At night, I headed over to the Grand Mosque, both an impressive homage to the Islamic faith and a illustrious display of the country’s growing wealth. Still not complete, the Mosque is filled with crystals, gold and wonderful pieces of art.
From Abu Dhabi |
From Abu Dhabi |
On Sunday, the fun began as I headed to Masdar City to begin my research. Masdar City is a 7 square kilometer planned community that is in its early stages of development. So far, phase 1 is complete, the Masdar Institute, a graduate level university focused on sustainability and renewable energy and affiliated with MIT. The University is a pilot program for many sustainable development projects and the campus has a number of really unique high-tech sustainability solutions. The first of these projects was the personal rapid transit system or PRT which uses computer controlled vehicles to get you from the parking lot to the institute, The hope is to have these PRTs running throughout the city and it is powered exclusively by renewables. Once inside the Institute, the wind tower will immediately catch anyone’s attention. Meant to keep the institute cool, the tower sucks in cool air, adds mist and channels it into the lower walking environment. All the buildings and labs within the Institute are also designed to be energy efficient and sustainable and a 10 megawatt solar plant and solar panels on the roof of each building provide renewable, clean energy to the University. I have been exploring the campus and learning from faculty, staff and students on the effects of the project on their own personal experiences and on the sustainable development community in the UAE.
From Abu Dhabi |
The PRT
From Abu Dhabi |
From Abu Dhabi |
I am in the process of uploading the last set of pictures from Malaysia and all the pictures I have taken from the UAE and Masdar so check those out: https://picasaweb.google.com/114615060684332010371
Until next time,
Ben
“Promoting Sustainable Development Always”
I am now finishing up my first week in Malaysia with four more days of research and touring left and it has been nothing short of an eventful few days. When I got to my hostel I was greeted by the amazing manager, Jeff, and a barbecue on the hostel’s rooftop balcony. It was a nice taste of home, as we grilled hot dogs and chicken on what happened to be July 4th. My patriotic side came out as I dined with my fellow travelers.
The next morning, I woke up early and headed to CETDEM, The Center for Environment, Technology, and Development, Malaysia where I met Anthony Tan Kee Huat, the Executive Director. He showed me around their model house that doubles as their headquarters. The house has a number of renovations including solar panels on the roof, improved insulation, and a really interesting air flume in the middle of the house that carries hot air up and keeps the house cool without the AC units used to cool most Malaysian homes. Anthony also gave me a history of the organization which has been working since 1985 on issues “no one cared about until recently.”
CETDEM’s motto is “Promoting Sustainable Development Always.” You may ask , “why the always?” Anthony’s go to answer: “you can’t have sustainable development sometimes.” When you think about this word, always, you realize how important living a completely sustainable lifestyle is if one wants to have any real impact. So many people may buy local and organic produce while driving hundreds of miles each day, or stress recycling while leaving their lights on at home all day long. What I have seen from those at CETDEM is the importance of a complete lifestyle change that can be done through a number of social, economic and environmental changes and the drastic improvements these changes can have on one’s life and one’s surroundings. CETDEM’s work is all about personal changes, focusing on individuals and searching for ways to live a completely sustainable lifestyle.
I spent my first couple of days getting to know the organization and the city of Kuala Lumpur. One interesting thing that I got to do was sit in on an Information Ministry meeting on promotion of Green Technology. CETDEM was invited to attend the meeting of a number of different governmental branches where each branch presented what they were doing to promote the field in the coming months. It was an eye opening experience in how the Government of Malayia was attacking this new and growing field.
Another day, I got the chance to join one of the CETDEM founders, Mrs. Tan, at the NGO’s Organic Farming Community Centre. Here, Mrs. Tan and a number of volunteers teach classes on Organic Farming, Composting, and Slow Food Cooking (a counter movement to fast food). I spent the morning helping Mrs. Tan turn a compost pile to be used in the Centre. Below is a picture of me as I help pack down the pile so that more garden waste can be added on top. For those who do not know composting it is the process by which food and garden waste is decomposed and made into a fertilizer. In Malaysia, roughly 40% of all landfill waste could be composted and made into a useful product.
From Malaysia |
So far I have had some great experiences with CETDEM but still have four more days packed with interviews and visits to other NGOs in Malaysia. It should also be noted that I have had some free time to see the sights and traveled to the KL Tower, the Masjid Jamek, and the Batu Caves. The view of the city from the top of the KL tower was amazing, even on a foggy day.
From Malaysia |
Finally, as most of you probably have heard, Saturday in KL was quite the adventure as 50,000 Malaysians took to the streets to push for election reforms. I myself was away from the action most of the day at CETDEM headquarters, 20 minutes outside of the city. Getting back was a different story, as the stop by my hostel on the light rail train was shut down. I ended up taking the train as close as I could at which point I found a bus to get me closer to my final destination. After getting off the bus, it was about a 15 minute walk, so I took to foot, only to be turned back by a police barricade. After waiting that out for about an hour, the LRT system was up and running, so I was able to head home. When I got back to the hostel, the other travelers had stories upon stories of marchers, police standoffs and even a few tear gas stories. In the end, everyone was safe and the demonstrations ended that day. Check out a few pictures of the police barricade and marchers.
From Malaysia |
From Malaysia |
Only a few more days until I head off to my next stop on this around the world adventure.
A Singapore Weekend
It was sad to leave Ecuador but it was even worse to know that I had a whopping five flights until I touched down in Singapore for a short weekend with a few friends who were doing summer research in the small southeast Asian nation. First, I flew from Quito, Ecuador to Guayaquil, Ecuador and from there it was off to San Jose, Costa Rica. To end the first day of travel, I then had a 6 hour flight to Los Angeles. In LA, I had a twenty four hour layover, giving me the chance to catch up on sleep and run a few errands in the states. The next night, I boarded a 14 hour flight to Manila, Philippines and then boarded the last flight to Singapore. All in all, it took 25 hours in the air, 2 full days of travel and way too many airline meals.
Finally, I was in Singapore with my two friends and staying in a nice, green friendly lodge. First thing I did in Singapore – slept 16 hours. It was just the recharge I needed. Saturday was spent getting to know the city and spending the day with my friends. One friend went to high school in Singapore and showed us around the city with some of his high school friends. I got the chance to watch polo, a sport that has always mystified me. People riding horses at full speed and hitting a ball no bigger than a baseball with a long wooden rod never appealed to me in theory but it sure is impressive. The rider’s coordination and athleticism was matched only by the agility and stamina of the horses.
Sunday, I got the chance to visit some of the major tourist sights in the city. First it was off to the Merlion, a half mermaid, half lion statue and a symbol of the nation. After that we explored the Marina Bay Sands area. The Sands is a huge three tier building with a giant boat-like observation deck on top connecting the three towers. Following the Sands we walked around the city and saw the amazing development taking place all over the city.
The best part of trip to Singapore was undoubtedly the diversity of food. The weekend was filled with food courts of various Asian cuisine, my favorite of which were the dumplings. The most exotic food I tried all weekend was stingray, which was some of the most tender fish I have ever eaten.
I am now off to Malaysia to continue my research with the Center for Technology, Development and Environment, an organization that is working in a variety of ways to promote sustainable development within this developing nation.
Estero del Platano
It has been roughly a week since I last posted and a lot of exciting things have gone on since then. On Monday and Tuesday, I spent my time at Yanapuma headquarters getting great interviews with Andy, the director, and Amelia, an intern at Yanapuma. From my interview with Andy, I got a good understanding of the reasoning behind the Foundation and the direction he hopes to take the Foundation in the future. During my interview with Amelia, I got the chance to hear how the Foundation has implemented projects in the small coastal community of Estero del Platano.
Finally it was time to head nine hours outside of Quito to Estero, a town of 600 who have been involved with Yanapuma since its founding in 2004. I took a night bus to Esmeraldas and then a 3 hour ride down the coast to Estero. At Estero, I met Jamie, an intern who is spending a year living in Estero, as well as Sonia, the mother of the home I homestayed in for a few nights. Sonia lived in a simple home with her husband, Afrain and her four children. They spoke very little english so communication was a challenge but we figured it out.
I spent my first morning helping Afrain with some gardening work and then spent the afternoon working with Jamie to get to know the town and help her with getting the word out to the community about a health care meeting that was taking place the next day. That night I got a tour of Yanapuma’s projects including a library, and most notably a water treatment facility that supplied the community with 20 liters of water for 25 cent. I got a taste of “pueblo” life when I crossed the river to head to Sonia’s for an evening conversation about the differences in our education system.
The next day was packed full of interviews with community members. I got to hear their opinion on Yanapuma, the work they were doing and what they wanted to see in the future. I really got a good taste of what the community saw as positive sustainable development and what they saw as an NGO pushing their own agenda. It was so interesting to see the discrepancies in how sustainable development is viewed and the importance placed on community oriented development.
Unfortunately, Jamie had to head to Quito so I was not able to do more interviews the next day and decided to head back to Quito with her. I will now spend the next few days finishing up my look at Yanapuma and then I am off to Singapore and Malaysia for the next leg of my trip. Finally, enjoy the pictures!
From Ecuador 1 |
A view of Quito
From Ecuador 1 |
Estero del Platano
From Ecuador 1 |
Part of my homestay family