To my delight, the next location on my itinerary was Spain – the only country I had visited outside of the United States before this summer. While studying abroad and interning there as an English teacher last year, I had the chance to visit everywhere from Nerja to Córdoba to Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. With over 15 Spanish cities checked off my list, one iconic location still remained: Barcelona. Since Perpignan is only a short train ride away, I took advantage of my proximity and crossed the border into what is one of my favorite places in the world. I spent a few days in the beautiful seaside city consolidating research notes, strengthening my interview questions, and planning later portions of my journey. With a trip this large it was impossible to plan every component before I left, so extra preparation was required while on the road.

Gaudí Architecture Tour

Palau Güell                                         Casa Batlló                    Casa Amatller (Designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch)

Casa Milà (La Pedrera)                                           La Sagrada Familia

La Sagrada Familia (Antoni Gaudí)

Park Güell (Antoni Gaudí)

Collioure

Tautavel

Perpignan

My second case study of the summer was at the Musée de la Préhistoire in Tautavel, France. The town became famous for its proximity to Argo Cave, a landmark situated on a steep slope above the Roussillon Plain of Tautavel and the River Verdouble. Evidence of Homo erectus occupation can be seen throughout the cave in layers of rock saturated with abandoned stone tools, animal bones, rudimentary kitchens, and human burials. The famed “Tautavel Man” is not a single complete skeleton, but rather a reconstruction based on about 100 fragmented remains totaling around 20 individuals. The skull of Tautavel Man was discovered around 40 years ago in the cave and dates back 450,000 years.

Alongside one of the head curators of the museum, I spent the day visiting the exhibits, touring storage facilities, and conducting interviews. Mid-afternoon we stopped in at the town’s auditorium to catch the end of an archaeology lecture by an Italian researcher. The presentation was part of a two-week intensive Erasmus archaeology workshop for professors and students from all corners Europe and assorted surrounding regions. After conversing with various academics, we made our way to a charming restaurant owned by friends of the curator. I was treated to a delicious lunch complete with my first Crema Catalana for dessert.

Lunch                                                The Tautavel Man                              A cast (replica) of Tautavel Man’s skull

Since the Musée de la Préhistoire is primarily an archaeological research institution and houses a large collection of ancient European remains, it provided a unique perspective imparted by no other museum on my itinerary. The institution has no written documents dictating treatment procedures of human specimens, as most practices have been adopted from past decades or established by the current director. No real remains are on display in the museum, just look-alike casts made on-site. This is not an issue of cultural sensitivity like I have encountered at other institutions, but rather an issue of research and preservation. The employees of the museum and visiting academics want to maintain the highest level of preservation and eliminate any chance of infliction of damage to these incredibly valuable remains. In addition, if specimens are on display then they are not readily available for scientific investigation. Rather than using separate rooms for research and storage, qualified individuals conduct their studies in the same room where the remains are kept in an effort to minimize damage as a result of transportation. Most human specimens can be found in the large main storage room in wooden drawers and plastic bags, while remains over 10,000 years old are kept in a high-security vault to which only select individuals have access.

Casts of famous remains from other countries           The lab in which casts are created                                           (Note the vault off to the right)

The morning after my voyage from England to France, I woke up early to complete a trial day trip to Tautavel. The Musée de la Préhistoire was the one case study for which my accommodation was not local, thus, I wanted to make sure I knew well in advance how to navigate my way between the two towns. (No need to accidentally miss a research appointment eight months (and 7,000 miles) in the making). For just one euro, I hopped on a bus in downtown Perpignan and rode about an hour out of town to the mountain village of Tautavel. Along the way I was treated to breathtaking views of French countryside – the rolling hills continuously validating the phrase “It’s not the destination, but the journey that matters.” Once in Tautavel, I spent the day exploring the winding cobblestone streets, figuring out exactly where to go when I returned on a later date, and eating French tapas at a charming outdoor restaurant. I felt myself falling in love with this sleepy little town, though a warm sunny day in the foothills of the French Pyrenees will do that to just about anyone.

The following morning I took a day trip southeast with two new friends to the unbelievably beautiful seaside town of Collioure, located less than 10 miles from the Spanish border. We hopped on another one-euro bus – swimsuits and sunglasses in tow – ready for a fantastic day in small-town France. Collioure turned out to be even more picturesque than I had imagined, complete with quaint cafes, sandy beaches, colorful shops, historic seaside fortresses, and a never-ending supply of sailboats. The three of us spent the day lounging in the sun, eating gelato (I recommend the coconut & passion fruit), and talking about our travels.

One of my favorite aspects about spending time with Alice and Angela had to be the way in which we communicated. I spoke Spanish with Angela, since she is from Brazil and knows more Spanish than English. As Alice is British, we spoke English when just the two of us were together. To top it off, both girls studied French and have spent periods of time living in the country, so they spoke French with each other. When all three of us were together, we conversed in the only language shared by everyone: English. I was fascinated by the almost effortless way in which we switched between different modes of communication depending on the current combination of people present.

This trip has led me to value language like never before. If I had to consider the list of possessions I brought from home – clothes, passport, credit card – I would say my knowledge of English and Spanish are by far my most valuable assets. (Granted I would not even be able to leave the United States without a passport, but that is beside the point). No matter which country I find myself in, the theme of communication continuously plays out in every aspect of my trip. I am so glad to have studied Spanish for the past nine years, as it has opened up a multitude of doors and made international travel so much easier. Knowing a second language allows me to bargain with street vendors, ask bus drivers where to disembark, talk of worldwide travel with new friends, and navigate my way around foreign lands.

Among backpackers, the first line of an introduction is usually “What languages do you speak?” This necessary first step of establishing the best way to communicate with one another is then followed up with topics such as why you are in [insert name of city], where you have been before now, and where you are going next. I have had encounters in which there was no mention of names or nationalities until the very end of the conversation. I love the fact that one’s background is no longer significant – all that matters is a desire to travel.

[Next on the agenda: Learn French].

Throughout the couple days leading up to my work in Tautavel, I divided my time between consolidating research notes from London and exploring Perpignan with Alice. It took a bit of effort to track down a cafe with free Wifi so that I could work, but luckily I had Alice by my side to serve as a personal translator. Afterwards we sat outside at a little restaurant in the heart of the most colorful neighborhood in Perpignan and enjoyed a meal of gazpacho, pesto pasta, and honey-caramelized goat cheese salad. Absolutely delicious. Though I’m traveling on a budget, I always make sure to have at least a couple nice meals in each location I visit – and southern France definitely did not disappoint. Later we wandered along the manmade waterway that runs through town, marveled at the iconic tower nearby, bought fresh cherries from a local vendor, and discovered hidden shops throughout the charming historical district. Warm, sunny weather subsequently called for a lazy afternoon in the park, fountain frolicking, and (of course) more ice cream.

After nine days of English museums and endless cups of tea, I found myself back at Heathrow and ready for a new adventure. The two-hour flight to France passed by in the blink of an eye and soon I was checking off another travel milestone: Visiting a country in which I do not speak the language. Before this summer I had only spent time in the US and Spain, so having a language barrier was quite a change of pace. Throughout my stay I perfected the basic phrases necessary for daily life and utilized the phrase “parlez-vous anglais ou espagnol?” (Do you speak English or Spanish?) like it was going out of style. Luckily enough, my new location was of such close proximity to Spain that many people with whom I conversed spoke some Spanish.

I flew into Toulouse and subsequently had a bit of a trek to make before arriving at my hostel. Though my research location was the tiny village of Tautavel in the foothills of the French Pyrenees, I had accommodation booked in Perpignan (the nearest city of substantial size to Tautavel). What started with a delayed flight out of London eventually concluded with a safe arrival in Perpignan, but the events in between were anything but boring.

After arriving in the Toulouse airport two hours behind schedule, I jumped on a bus outside the airport in pursuit of the train station. A helpful man on the bus used the five words of English he knew to direct me to the correct stop, then after running across the street to the station, another obliging stranger told me that the last train of the day to Perpignan was leaving in a half hour at 19:49.

• 19:20 – I took a number from the counter and proceeded to wait alongside 40 other people to purchase a ticket.
• 19:40 – The clerk was nowhere near calling my number and I came to the realization that I would most likely miss my train. There was no other way to make the journey that evening and I did not have accommodation in Toulouse.
• 19:41 – I noticed two machines in the adjacent room and ran over to try purchasing a ticket from them.
• 19:42 – After entering my trip specifications and selecting my fares, the machine rejected both my debit card and credit card.
• 19:45 – With no common language between us, I managed to get the woman behind me in line to buy the ticket on her credit card and then handed her the 35 Euros in cash.
• 19:47 – Ran in the direction of the trains and realized I had no idea what any of the signs said.
• 19:48 – Asked the first person I saw for directions. When he recognized that I had no time to figure it out myself, he sprinted with me through the maze of stairs to the correct platform.
• 19:49 – Twenty seconds after I jumped aboard, the train pulled away from the station.

Gare de Toulouse-Matabiau (Toulouse Train Station)   Train from Toulouse to Narbonne

The highlight of my journey turned out to be an incredibly friendly Armenian dad, Seroja, who was assigned to the seat across from mine. Between the two of us we spoke five languages – English, Spanish, French, Armenian, and Russian – none of which overlapped. Throughout the ride he spoke in French, I responded in Spanish, and when that was not enough we used hand signals, drawings, and photos to fill in the gaps. Since he was also traveling to Perpignan and had to make the same transfer as me in Narbonne, he became my personal guide for the rest of the trip. We had a wonderful (though very basic) conversation about everything from family to language to Chicago. He didn’t speak English, but did excitedly respond with the words “Mafia” and “Al Capone” when I mentioned where I live.

In keeping with the theme of the day, the train stopped on the tracks to Narbonne and remained motionless for over an hour and a half. Everyone aboard missed their subsequent connections and the transport officials had to schedule a special late-night train for all of us headed to Perpignan. Later in the evening with the help of a Spanish-speaking police officer at the Perpignan train station, I eventually found my way to the hostel in the wee hours of the morning, located the key they the management had hid for me after I called from Seroja’s phone, and immediately fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.

The journey from England to France took place with no shortage of challenges – which is just the way I like it. These days I’m actually a bit disappointed if a travel day passes without the need for any serious problem solving. What’s life without a bit of adventure?

Perpignan at Night                                                    Auberge Jeunesse (Youth Hostel)

Over the weekend the Spaldings wanted to show me a bit of the English countryside, so the four of us drove south to Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn (King Henry VIII’s second wife). The castle had been transformed into a fascinating museum and was surrounded by beautiful gardens, forests, mazes, and moats. My favorite attraction on the grounds was the water maze, a puzzle that challenged visitors to get to the center tower without being sprayed with water that shot up when certain stones were stepped on. After a lively week in London, it was wonderful to get out of the city and spend some time in the quiet English countryside.

After my research the next day at the Natural History Museum, I crossed the street and entered the Victoria & Albert Museum. I had no idea what to expect, but instantly fell in love with the place. Housing a permanent collection of over 4.5 million objects, it is the world’s largest museum of decorative arts and design. Some of my favorites included the Japanese and Middle Eastern rooms, the jewelry exhibit, and the full-scale replica of the archway of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The iconic landmark marks the end of the “Camino de Santiago” (“The Way of St. James”), one of the largest religious pilgrimages in the world. It is believed that after hiking for weeks (or months, or years) and finally passing through the entryway under the figure of Santiago (St. James), all of one’s sins will be absolved. The arch was undergoing restoration efforts when I visited last July, so at the V&A I was finally able to view every beautiful detail of the structure.

On the way home I took a few minutes to wander through Harrods. I could have spent hours gawking at the endless abundance of mouth-watering delicacies and spectacular fashion.

During my last full day in London I took the train to Tate Modern so I could cross the Millennium Bridge to meet up with Margo, a friend of one of my best friends from home, and tour St. Paul’s Cathedral. Dubbed “London’s Cathedral,” St. Paul’s is one of Europe’s largest churches with a dome only exceeded in size by that of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The cathedral is absolutely stunning and though photography is not allowed inside, we couldn’t help but sneak a picture or two. An enormous orchestra and choir were practicing in the middle of the rotunda, so the sound of over 200 people echoed through the vaulted masterpiece as we wandered around. Once we completed the main floor, we were lucky enough to make it into the very last group departing to tour the three galleries above the rotunda. After 560 steps, we were rewarded with a stunning panoramic view of the city. Later in the afternoon we left the cathedral and headed over near the Tower of London to grab some fish & chips for dinner.

After successful interviews at impressive British museums and jam-packed days of sightseeing, the time had come to depart from London. England was a wonderful place to start of this crazy journey – similar culture, same language, and a wonderful family to live with. Though I’m sad to leave, I can’t wait to visit the other locations on my itinerary!

During my unforgettable week in London I managed to take 883 photos. Below are a few of my favorites!

Buckingham Palace

The Changing of the Guard                                        Westminster Abbey

The Gardens of Westminster Abbey       Westminster Abbey                        The Rosetta Stone (The British Museum)

Fun Fact: The British Museum has the largest collection of Egyptian mummies outside of Egypt

Big Ben                                                The Tate Modern                                Picasso

Bubbles near Millennium Bridge                                 Tower Bridge

Immy and Dom                                                        Hever Castle

The Hever Castle Gardens

The Natural History Museum                                                                          My London Home

View from the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral                    The Tower of London

A few days after touring the British Museum, I rode a red double-decker bus west to the Natural History Museum (of course choosing to sit on the top deck). Like almost all museums in London, the British Museum and the Natural History Museum are free to the public. This fact stands in stark contrast with the steep fees that always seem to accompany tours of similar institutions in the United States. Entering through the staff and visitor entrance, I sat down with the head of the Human Remains Unit to discuss the museum’s collections and policies regarding the display, storage, research, and repatriation of their specimens. After a wonderful interview I explored the rest of the museum, first stopping in the human biology exhibit to take note of the human femur, brain and spinal chord, and complete skeleton on display there. I subsequently made my way through the “Our Place in Evolution” exhibit, which features primarily casts of famous remains located in other museums with about six real specimens belonging to the NHM scattered throughout. Before heading off to explore the rest of the exhibits, I paused to take pictures of the unbelievable architecture that brings such character to the Central Hall of the museum. Built long before electricity, the building is lit from above by large windows that flood the rooms with natural light. The head of the Human Remains Unit explained to me that many years ago there was no set closing time of the museum, as it varied with the setting of the sun. With its ornate architecture and vaulted ceiling, she affectionately calls the building a “cathedral to science.”

After my time at the two museums I was better equipped with a more thorough understanding of British museum policy and general opinions regarding human remains. One aspect of these institutions that sets them apart from the rest of the museums on my itinerary is the fact that they house massive collections spanning all geographic regions and time periods. Like many other museums, such The Field Museum, they actually only display less than 1% of what they own – the rest stays tucked away in storage. For example, the Natural History Museum has around 20,000 sets of human remains on site, but only a very small handful are on display.

The British government has passed specific laws to address the handling of human remains by entities such as museums and both the British Museum and the NHM abide by these protocols. The written policies established by both institutions comply with the recommendations laid out by the Department for Culture, Media & Sport (DCMS) in the October 2005 Code of Practice. This code was a follow-up to the Human Tissue Act of 2004 in an effort to provide guidance to museums with human remains in their collections.

The British Museum and the Natural History Museum allow outside parties to access the remains – whether scientific researchers or affiliated cultural groups – with the completion of detailed protocol and appropriate approval. Both institutions receive requests for repatriation from cultural groups claiming ancestral ties to specimens in their collections. Through collaboration with a wide range of experts in the field, they must weigh the interests of these groups against the scientific potential of the specimens and the possible benefit to society as a whole.

It’s official: I love London. (I have a feeling I will be saying that with each location I visit, but we’ll cross that bridge when we get there). Throughout the initial hours of my arrival in the UK I found myself smiling every time I heard someone speak in an English accent. As you can imagine, I must have been overjoyed with this novelty every other minute then – even when an automated voice on the train announced upcoming stops. It was both strange and wonderful to be the one with an accent this time around.

Trafalgar Square

Since my research was not scheduled to begin until June 20th, I spent my first full day in London exploring the city. I took a quick train ride downtown to Charing Cross, wandered through Trafalgar Square, explored St. James’s park, happened to arrive at Buckingham Palace during the changing of the guard, toured Westminster Abbey (making sure to walk the same path that the other Catherine took during the royal wedding), and explored a variety of random streets and shops that caught my eye. As I rounded the corner to view Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament I discovered that the zipper of my bag refused to open and therefore I had no access to my camera, money, book, food, etc. I was so exhausted from sightseeing and the previous day’s travel that I was actually glad to have an excuse to head home. My Oyster card (for the train) and house keys were luckily in a separate pocket, allowing me to make it back to Ladywell without a problem. When cutting a hole in the messenger bag later that night to retrieve my belongings, I told Dom & Suz that if this has been the biggest hiccup in my international journey thus far, then I’m doing just fine.

Buckingham Palace

Westminster Abbey

Thursday marked the beginning of my research, as it was the day of my appointment with the Curator of Physical Anthropology at The British Museum. The morning started off with the realization that I had packed two left black flats instead of a normal pair – taking the phrase “two left feet” to a whole new level. I was able to wear them for the interview then immediately change back into comfortable sandals upon leaving the building. My experience at The British Museum was a wonderful way to start off the project – I had a great interview, toured some of the behind-the-scenes storage facilities, took photographs of any human remains on display, and even had time to visit practically every exhibit of the museum.

The British Museum

The Great Court

The following Friday I spent the day exploring the South Bank of the River Thames. I took a ridiculous number of pictures (237, to be exact) of landmarks such as Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye, the Jubilee Gardens, the Royal Festival Hall Food Market, the rooftop garden of Queen Elizabeth Hall, Tate Modern, St. Paul’s Cathedral, London Bridge, City Hall, Tower Bridge, the Shard, and the Tower of London. In the afternoon I bought a snack to curb my hunger, and though not much can compete with a Nutella Milkshake from Edzo’s in Chicago, a Nutella Frappé on the South Bank of the River Thames definitely comes close. Later when it began to rain, I ducked into Tate Modern – London’s museum of modern art – and wandered the halls for hours viewing the works of artists from Mondrian to Picasso. After the museum I walked under Millennium Bridge (only recognizing this footbridge to St. Paul’s Cathedral because it was destroyed with special effects in the sixth Harry Potter movie), stopped to watch the free festival next to city hall, and continued on to Tower Bridge. When I arrived they had stopped traffic and raised the bridge to let a boat through (fortuitous timing has become a reoccurring theme on this trip). I ended the afternoon on a bench in front of the Tower of London, taking in the scenery along the river and reminding myself once again how unbelievably lucky I am to be on this international adventure.

Big Ben & The Houses of Parliament

The River Thames – Tower Bridge to London Bridge

Hello from London! I’ve had a wonderful past few days abroad – there’s been time to settle in, see the sights, and start my research. I’m less than a week in and already discovering that this whole adventure is passing by too quickly for my tastes.

Monday evening I departed the Madison airport on a 26-minute flight to Chicago. The plane fit only three passengers across and just a third of the seats were filled. Needless to say it was not the largest (nor longest) flight I will be boarding this summer, but was made quite memorable by the hilariously entertaining flight attendant. She told jokes over the intercom, encouraged passengers to press the blue button above our heads if we got lonely (she wanted to come chat), and walked through the aircraft giving one-on-one gate information because she preferred adding that personal touch.

Flight #1: Madison – Chicago

Upon arriving at O’Hare, I checked in at my new gate to reserve a seat. The woman asked for my last name, looked at me quizzically, then asked, “You’re not Scott Althaus, are you?” To which I responded, “No, that’s my father.” Luckily there was not a problem with my reservation (my initial fear), as both a Scott and Catherine Althaus were registered for the 9:45pm flight to London. With my seat now reserved, I sat down to wait. The flight attendant subsequently started to page Scott Althaus’ name over and over, as he was late for the flight and needed to check in. I called my father to ask if he secretly bought a plane ticket to follow me around the world. Luckily, he had not.

Flight #2: Chicago – London

As I couldn’t be assigned a seat until I arrived at the gate, I ended up with 38E: the very middle seat in a five-person section of a row that held nine people. I couldn’t sleep for any long duration during the flight, which unfortunately contradicts my notorious claim to fame of being able to fall asleep anytime, anywhere. (Luckily I have fourteen more flights to prove my abilities). I landed at Heathrow 11am London time and passport control asked to see proof of my research. Upon presenting him with the letter from the Circumnavigators Club, he inspected it and then needed to show it to the official in the next booth. For a second I was worried there was a problem, but he simply grinned and said to his colleague “Look at this letter. It’s so official.” He then turned to me, commented, “that’s a nice letter,” and handed it back. Apparently the Circumnavigators Club letterhead and statement of purpose should be an example to all.

Three trains later, I finally arrived at my destination in the southeast portion of the city. I am lucky enough to be spending the week at the home of Dominic and Suzanne Spalding, friends of friends, who live in a lovely home in the Ladywell neighborhood with their two-year-old daughter Imogen (“Immy”). I spent the rest of the afternoon settling in and fighting off the urge to fall asleep for the night. The entire trip went incredibly well and I couldn’t be happier to begin the first leg of my journey!

Immy, 2 yrs old