Hello there!
I know, it’s been a while since my last post. Between being busy with work and interviews, the chaos of travel, and the rapidly approaching end of my trip, I’ve found it difficult to sit down and write a long blog entry. But I would be remiss if I didn’t get to tell you about my second stop in Argentina.
Patagonia was everything I hoped it would be, and more. Upon arriving at the Esquel airport, which is a one-room wooden building with probably five total employees, I was immediately confronted with some of the logistical troubles I knew I might find in a more remote area. There is no Uber, for example, and I almost got stuck in the airport because I didn’t have enough cash for a taxi. The town I was staying in, Trevelin, is about 45 minutes from the airport, and as small as Esquel may have seemed as I drove through, Trevelin is even smaller. It consists of one long road lined with supermarkets and the occasional restaurants, one roundabout, a school, a soccer field, and a tennis court. And that’s pretty much it. The houses are dramatically framed by the cragged peaks of the Andes no matter which direction you look; it’s so close to Chile you can probably see the border, which runs through the mountain range. Trevelin is known for its beautiful setting, of course, its distinct Welsh history (pretty rare in Latin America), and its stunning tulip fields that bloom every October. In August, however, it’s bitingly cold — it snowed the morning my plane landed — and quiet. I was probably the only tourist the week I was there, and definitely the only foreigner. For me, it was perfect.
The view of the Andes from just outside Trevelin.
You might be able to tell from some of my last blog posts, but I have been craving time away from a fast-paced city for some a while now. I’ll admit, it isn’t always easy to get around without the infrastructure of public transportation. And almost nothing has information online — if you want to know how to get around, you have to ask. During my first few days, I felt a little stuck. But spending time in a small town where you speak the language lends the wonderful gift of building relationships with strangers: my taxi driver, the cashier at the grocery store, the waitress at the Welsh tea shop, the mother and daughter who run the travel agency. By the time I left, I was actually waving to people on the street and chatting with acquaintances on the bus. All these generous strangers helped me find my way around and gave me the confidence to approach these logistical challenges with curiosity and grace.
The view of Cerro Calfu Mahuida from the hills above Esquel.
My first excursion out of Trevelin happened almost by accident. I was trying to catch the bus to the nearby Los Alerces National Park, which suffered wildfires earlier this year, but slept in and missed it (in my defense, the bus left at 6:45 AM). Slightly deflated, I decided to take the bus to Esquel instead and figure out my day as I went. As I looked out my window at the mountains towering in the distance, I was inspired to open AllTrails on my phone and found that some beautiful hikes started not too far from town. I hiked almost 17 miles — from the bus station, up the hill to Laguna La Zeta, and back through the parks of Esquel to Laguna Willmanco. I truly don’t have words to describe how awe-inspiring the views were. Since I hadn’t expected to be hiking at all that day, I had worn boots (not my walking shoes) and my last clean pair of pants, which happened to be the slacks I usually reserve for formal interviews. However, the scenery made me pulse with adrenaline to the point that my feet didn’t even ache until I got home that night. Stunning mountains, lakes as clear as mirrors, and green-blue-grey shrubs that remind me of the textured greenery of Northern California. I’m including some pictures here, but trust me, they don’t do it justice.
Laguna La Zeta. Look at those clouds!
Another view of Calfu Mahuida, this time from Laguna Willmanco.
The next day, I actually did make it to Los Alerces. Part of my dilemma was how best to see and learn more about the park: while there is a bus, it runs only twice a week and will only take you to one stop, and renting a taxi for the day is very expensive. I ultimately decided to take part in a group tour. Not only did it allow me to see much more of Los Alerces and learn about its history, but I was able to talk with the other Argentinians on the tour about how wildfires impact their lives. I might have been the youngest of our group by at least 40 years, but it was a joy to hike, drive, and test my Spanish nature/science vocabulary throughout the 8-hour journey through the park. We saw wild flamingos, glaciers, ancient cave paintings, waterfalls, and an emerald-green lake.
The views driving into Los Alerces NP (flamingos are hiding, but there, I promise).
Even better, my guide gave me tips on how to catch the bus the next morning to explore Cerro El Dedal, the highest peak you can climb during the winter. It’s about 7 miles round trip with over 3000ft of elevation in the first 3 miles, but oh boy, the views of the park in the morning light made it far worth the effort. My only regret was not bringing snow shoes: above the tree line, I had to dig my sneakers into the snow to make my way up the peak!
On the way up El Dedal….
…and near the summit! This panorama made my soggy shoes worth it.
I will be forever grateful for the peace this beautiful little town gave me. Not only did it surpass my already high expectations for Patagonia’s scenery, but it grew my travel confidence and helped me prove to myself that I’m more than capable of getting myself from point A to point B. These lessons have already been invaluable in Brazil, a similarly untouristy city where I don’t speak the language at all. Seeing all the natural beauty — including the miles of burnt trees — was a powerful reminder of my admiration for the people and places threatened by climate disaster. It was the ultimate adventure, and I loved every minute of it.
Calfu Mahuida again. Can you tell I was a fan of this mountain?
Thank you, Trevelin!